Hillary mataki, da kafaɗar Dutsen Everest: description da kuma tarihin

Mene ne Hillary Mataki, ya san kowane mai hawan duwatsu wanda mafarkansu zuwa nasara da Everest. Wasu sun ce wannan shi ne wani mummunan wuri, barjat gawawwakin gaza nasara nasara "saman duniya." Wasu - kome ba musamman da kuma m kunya ba wakilta. A cikin Alps, misali, akwai kuma mafi hadaddun bango. Kuma idan yanayin yanayi ne moriya, da kuma kwalabe da isashshen sunadarin oxygen da cin nasara da gangare Hillary saba da tsawo na jiki sauƙi. Sherpas sa shi 'yan sau a lokacin kakar. Su proveshivajut igiya, ga wanda sa'an nan jingina hawa da kuma kasuwanci da yawon bude ido. Amma wannan labarin ba a yi nufin ya amsa tambaya mai sauki, ko da wuya a shawo kan mataki na Hillary. Mun kawai gaya muku abin da shi ne. Kuma a cikin bayanai da kuma hotuna na iya samar da wani ra'ayi na haduwar da yaƙin neman zaɓe.

Everest

A cikin tsakiyar karni na sha tara Birtaniya Geodetic Survey gano da kayan da girma ganiya a cikin Himalayas. Yana bayyana a located a kan iyakar na Tibet da kuma Nepal 15. A ganiya kokuwa a 8848 mita saman teku matakin, aka mai suna a cikin girmamawa ga shugaban na sabis, da surveyor George Everest. Birtaniya sani ba cewa dutsen akwai sunan. Nepalese kira shi da Uwar daga cikin alloli - Sagarmatha. Kuma Tibet kira Dutsen Qomolangma. Domin su, da haske pinnacle alama ce mai girma Uwar Life. Wannan yanki da aka dauke alfarma. Kawai a 1920, da Tibet ruhaniya shugaban da Dalai Lama ya yarda Turawa zuwa kokarin kai farmaki ta. Duk da haka, Dutsen Everest ya hõre kawai ta goma sha ɗaya a karkashin asusun na balaguro, wadda ta zo a cikin matakai na Hillary kan Everest. An mai suna a cikin girmamawa daya daga cikin Membobinta, wanda a tare da Sherpa Tenzing Norgeyem farko hau zuwa "saman duniya."

Mene ne matakin na Hillary

Hawa Everest ne ba a zahiri high mawuyaci. A kan hanya babu tsaye zana hotunan, wanda zai iya hawa sai horar mai hawan duwatsu. The matsaloli da fuskantar da marinjaya na Everest, guda biyu ne kawai tare da wani falalen dũtse mai duwatsu. 8000 mita saman teku matakin, zai fara abin da ake kira mutuwa zone. Oxygen a rarefied yanayi ne ma low domin ya raya rai. Low zazzabi da kuma matsa lamba tashi zuwa adam sani mafi m kaya, danda tushe gabbai. A wannan halin da ake ciki, kowane mataki ne da aka ba tare da wata wahala ba. Kuma a nan, sosai a kusa da coveted saman, a tsawon 8790 mita, ke tsiro Hillary Mataki - a tsaye tsinkaya kunshi kankara da kuma compacted snow. Around shi, babu wata hanyar. A garesu shi ne kewaye da sosai sosai m cliffs. Kawai da abu daya - zuwa hawa kusan tsaye trinadtsatimetrovomu leji.

Hillary hawa Dutsen Everest

The balaguro na 1953, ta goma sha ɗaya, kunshi fiye da ɗari huɗu da mutane. Zaki ya share lissafta masu tsaron ƙofofi kuma Yanã shiryar da - Sherpas. Wadannan mutane da dogon rayukansu a high tsawo. Saboda da karbuwa daga cikin Sherpas da volumetric haske da karfi zuciya, kazalika da ban mamaki adaptability zuwa sanyi. The balaguro cigaban sannu a hankali. Kiwon da kuma karbuwa dauki watanni biyu. A rukunin kafa sansani a tsawon 7900 mita. A farko hadari kashe saman biyu Birtaniya mai hawan duwatsu Charles Evans da kuma T. Bordillon. Amma domin suna da matsaloli tare da oxygen masks, su aka tilasta koma. Kashegari, May 29, ya yi kokarin su luck kashe New Zilan Edmund Hillary da Tenzing Sherpa Norgeyem. Bayan da kudu Kanal hanya katange su babbar firn mataki. Hillary ƙulla da igiya, ya fara hawa kusan tsaye gangara. Saboda haka ya kai wani snow cornice. Ba da da ewa igiya zuwa gare shi, da kuma Norgay tayi ta hawa dutsen. The fi na biyu daga masu hawa kai a 11,30 am.

Haduwar hawa hade da matakin Hillary

A farko nasara na Everest isa wurinta kafin rana tsaka, sabili da haka iya barin "sashi na mutuwa" kafin faɗuwar rana. Wannan yana da muhimmanci sosai. Saboda dare sama dubu takwas mita saman teku matakin na nufin wani mutuwa. Yanzu mamaye na Chomolungma kawota a kan wani ciniki akai. Mutane da yawa arziki da kuma m yawon bude ido sãɓãwar launukansa digiri na shirye-shiryen da aka aiko hadari Everest. Amma su, da kuma m hawa guda yau da kullum. Yunƙurin daga alfijiri, march up, photographed a saman duniya game 15-20 minti kuma wani m zuriya zuwa zango. Amma Hillary Mataki - gangara ne ma kunkuntar, saboda haka ya rasa mutane biyu. A sakamakon haka, game da shi sau da yawa Halicci jerin gwano, har ma ciwon yaki. Bayan duk, kasuwanci matafiya wanda ya biya dama dubu daloli ga hawan Everest, ba ka so su zo sharuddan da ra'ayin cewa akwai bukatar su jũya, domin shi ne marigayi. Wasu ƙi conductors, je zuwa taron kuma ya halaka a kan hanya.

Plans don kasuwanci matafiya

Akwai da dama ra'ayoyi kan yadda za a sa mafi araha Everest. Hillary mataki ba zai iya dauka da yawa fiye da wadanda ke fama. Yana ba da alama haka babban cikas. A farkon watan Afrilu, da Sherpa tawagar zo a cikin m sansanin, ci gaba da tsarin sa'an nan ke zuwa saman. Akwai, wadannan jarumawa proveshivajut Hillary igiyoyi a kan matakai, wanda a cikin shakka daga cikin kakar hawa dubban Turawa da kuma Amurkawa. Wadannan m yawon bude ido za su bi Sherpas da kaya da kuma oxygen cylinders. Saboda haka tsanani dauke da ra'ayin gina Everest ... da lif. Hakika, da saman dutsen za su sa a Dome cewa za a inflated tare da iska a matsayin gida. Amma ko da idan muka fassara wannan m ra'ayin cikin gaskiya, shi ne har yanzu dubban mutane za hadari gangaren tuddai, sunã gaggãwa zuwa snow-rufe ganiya.

Sherpas shirin

Guides, wanda kuma ba ya so ya rasa su albashi, ya miƙa a kasa m ra'ayin fiye da da lif zuwa Everest. Shi ne da za a karya ta dama, saukarwa Hillary tsit mataki. Wannan shirin ba ya duba quite haka mara kyau. Sherpas da haka kafa Tsarin a tushe sansanin a tsawon 5300 mita. Suna bayar da damar gudanar da karfe matakala bayan kasancewa a cikin m motsi Khumbu gleiser kuma ba da hanya zuwa kwarin Shiru (6500 m). A baya can, suka proveshivajut biyu filaye a narrowest batu na da kafada. Yanzu, duk da haka, da suka bayar da m sa na karfe matakala da Hillary Mataki. Everest godiya ga su zai zama mafi m, saboda wannan dutse ba zai zama queues.